One of our more unusual designers at Renegade Marmalade is Kei Kagami, a Japanese designer who originally worked in architecture before moving to London in the late 80’s to work with John Galliano. Kagami spent 3 seasons with Galliano then moved towards creating his own label (Kei Kagami) by enrolling at Central St Martins alongside the late, great Alexander McQueen. Kei Kagami’s graduating collection was the best in its class, gaining the finale spot in the 1992 graduation show.
When I first had the pleasure of meeting Kei Kagami at Paris fashion week – Tranoi (2010), I was so stunned by the collection in front of me, I didn’t even notice him sat quietly to the side of his exhibition on a wooden stool. In absolute awe of each piece, I felt my way around from tailored dress to suit jacket, quickly falling in love. He approached me with a familiar smile on his face and as I turned to look at him there was a moment of silent appreciation in both of us, for each other. Silent myself for finding such an incredible and breathtaking designer, one of those eureka moments in every buyers life, this is what I came to Paris for! This scruffy Japanese man has made my trip worthwhile. And silent Kagami for the gratification of meeting someone who was recognising his gift in creating these extraordinary garments.
Although Kagami’s talents were beyond many of the other designers I had seen that day, he remained refreshingly humble and excited just by the idea of showing his creations to me, and I was enthused by him. He pointed out a pair of shoes on the floor, which I loved instantly and within seconds he was pulling the shoes off my feet to allow me to try them on. I spent the next 10 minutes removing most of the clothes I was wearing in order to be re-dressed by Kagami. I would stress that this is not what usually happens when I’m meeting potential new designers but what could I do? I was in love!
Kagami considers himself a true artisan, creating clothes, shoes and conceptual pieces characterised by striking forms and unusual materials. Looking at anatomy, biology, ecology and futurism, Kagami breaks the traditional boundaries of what constitutes a garment, how pieces can be worn, how they can be combined and how they can interact and transform through their relationship with the wearer. In our view, then, a truly original designer.
When speaking of his designs Kagami has said “I don’t have any respect for things which are copied or manipulated too much from something original. I am a creator myself and for me there are always two important elements: Originality and creativity.” Each collection by Kagami has a strong theme, concept and story which sets the mood for his designs; he has a rigorous creative process which experiments with mannequins and materials to make one expressive vision piece, itself then becoming the muse for the direction of the entire collection.
There is an invigorating unease in Kagami’s creations - the relationship between the mechanistic and the organic; the pattern and the wearer. It is an intangible, unconventional, spirited quality to these beautifully and skilfully constructed garments that seems to reveal itself – boldly, daringly, excitingly - in the wearing. We’re a little bit scared and we like it!
